Christmas 2015 - The Camino is drawing us in again

It has only taken 5 months for the Camino to start filling our mind again ...our memories have grown even more rich and possibly a little more romantic (you do forget the hard moments overtime) as we have fallen into a new rhythm of life that is good but has its expected predictability, no new paths to walk or places to discover everyday.
Its to our detriment that we have to confess to walking less than 20 km in total since we have been back but with the completion of a photo book ,a few video's (and more in the pipeline) ... and the invariable screensaver the Camino has never been far from our minds. A number of friends and acquaintances are planning the journey in 2016 and we eagerly wait to hear their stories and discoveries.
 

We each stir up the adventurous spirit with forwarded links to video's of other Camino routes and other adventures ....but that is all to come as we look for God's signs re which way to go.
We were blessed on so many levels by the Camino pilgrimage but have to be reminded by the encouragements we saw on the camino.... KEEP GOING ....DON'T STOP ME NOW

A Final Camino Miracle and a family welcome home

After nearly 30 hours on the road, with stopovers at Hong Kong and Cairns, the bleary eyed pilgrims stumbled into the toughest immigration hall in the world. We had been faced the task of completing the immigration form which we had repeatedly been reminded was a legal document and penalties existed if answered untruthfully....so we gulped and ticked two boxes, declaring that we had been in "a wilderness area...." and we were in possession of  "shells...." . With our family waiting outside ,tiredness overwhelming us and the prospect of going through the rigors of a full baggage search (with our pack security stretch wrapped) we went through the auto passport ID gates we were met by a roving female immigration officer who enquired had we been hiking...the question quickly turned to the Camino as she had noticed my camino shell neck pendant and larger shell on my cabin bag...she called some of her associates over exclaiming.."they have just walked 800km on the Camino...would love to do that". After casual questions if we had cleaned our equipment she stamped our forms and we made our way straight through in record time..another and final Camino miracle !!!

So we finally made our way out to our family...home after 9 weeks on the road  .... 843km walked on the Camino...1.3 mil steps...sleeping in 60 different beds .....I could go on and on ...but most importantly ...the trip of a lifetime.

The re-entry Journey has begun

As we sit in our Paris Hotel having just savoured a wonderful Parisian meal I reflected on our re-entry process since finishing the Camino . The nearly one week in & around Santiago was an awesome time and a place to physically wind down and to decipher & digest what the Camino's has meant to us....and commence the re-entry into the real Camino...life!
The highlight of St James Celebrations combined with Anita's birthday was a day to remember . Then there was fantastic Finsterre, catching up with awesome Camino friends, a pilgrim mass with botafumeiro  performance and of course meeting St James himself ... well his relics and statue that is .
We have now travelled 4 of the 28 hrs flying to get home. . to Paris to be a tourist again in this city of love . We have visited a number of favourite places again . . . the Eiffel tower, Champs Elysees, Notre Dame Cathedral and the Latin quarter...we walked rather than catch the Metro...18km on one day alone.☺..So many amazing memories from our trip in the 70's ( long hair and kombie) and recently in 2012 after our daughters UK wedding...
We hope  all our walking will makes nice and tired for our long trip home...thinking about all we have on...and back to work. The big challenge will be to answer the question..."how was your trip?".....hmmm..will have to work on that on the flight home for how do you describe such a profound physical, emotional, mental and spiritual journey in one sentence...how about..."give it a try yourself, then you will have your answer...buen camino" 😊

Amazing..St James Day + Anita's Birthday...Santiago Spain

We travelled back from magical and sunny Finisterre on a foggy and drizzly day ,thankfully it was the no stops direct route to Santiago, quicker and safer . We were returning for the "fests do Apostlo" ( festival of the Apostle ) which runs for the last 2 weeks in July with the high point of festivities being around St James Day on the 25th July... which happen's to be Anita's 60th birthday!!
Our accommodation was right In the middle of it all ,opposite the pilgrims office in Rua Villar, so we have been immersed in the excitement of new pilgrims finishing and the overall celebrations culminating in midnight fireworks over the cathedral ..but first we queued up for Friday nights Pilgrims mass which included the lighting of the Botafumeiro.
The queue wound its way around the block and we were wondering if we would get in at all ... then we noticed a few people leaving the line and going to the Cathedral gift shop and not returning ..was this a secret portal in ? We went to investigate and yes there was a door open into the Cathedral so we got a prime spot to see the ceremony of the Mass including the choir singing the Mass in latin and the huge burning inscense dispensing 53kg Botafumeiro swinging high into the Cathedral ceiling. This ceremony was introduced to effectively fumigate the smelly pilgrims...you can only imagine ...it has now become the ending highpoint for all pilgrims.
The streets were packed with families enjoying the festivities and the crowds grew around the Cathedral as the Fireworks exploded into the sky .. . amazing . what a culmination to our Camino . . side by side with Anita on her 6Oth birthday the best ever !
The party was just beginning for the Spanish with the music going to till 4am .
As we wandered back into our hotel who should we see in the hotel cafe but our Camino friend Daianna So after a celebratory drink and reminiscing,we did not make till bed till 1.30am☺
Anita was unaware that I had organised a family Skype call at 9am..so when i awoke her prior it was into the shower to freshen up...what a joy to see our kids and Nate...wow how he has grown ..standing and trying to talk..it made us want to be home even more.
The remaining time Santiago was spent soaking in the sights ,sounds and flavours of this ancient place....including the mandatory gift and clothes shopping (we have after all had a very limited wardrobe for 50 days)..and a Sangria (Spanish alcoholic punch like drink) and the fabulous food of course.
So its off to Paris on Tuesday for a brief R&R before flying back late thursday night...ending a profound time in our lives.

The End of the World - Finisterre

Our Camino wasn't totally finished till we had visited km "Zero" . the "End of the Earth" ... Finisterre. Our bodies and spirits said we were finished at Santiago so it was jump a bus for the winding and beautiful 2 hr trip which we did on yet another sunny,blue sky day .
It was magical following the coast through small inlet villages and beautifull sandy beaches I've got to say . when we arrived it was drop our luggage at our accommodation and make our way 3km further to the lighthouse and Km zero. More walking and uphill at that but wow...what beautiful scenery...the Atlantic ocean...bay of Biscay? at its calmest...fishing boats chugging back into port,sailing boats silhouetted against the horizon..again lost for words!
So down to the point..the End of the Earth as its name implies. Here the tradition is to wait till sunset and burn some of your old gear..evidence around that this is still practised though the authorities have painted stencils encouraging pilgrims to "Make love don't burn"☺
After the mandatory photos It was back to Finisterre to enjoy some time on its fabulous beach...white sand and all. Fantastic seeing tourists & pilgrims ( the ones with tan marks where socks were) all enjoying the sun and sand . ..unfortunately the sea was just a little too cold for a swim.
We finished the day as we had dreamt of all those months ago with a seafood paella and vino Blanco dinner sitting across from the boat harbour full of beautiful fishing boats....so there is only one thing left as I sit on the balcony overlooking the sea is a nice sunset! Ah beautiful Finisterre..it was short but oh so sweet.
Back to Santiago tomorrow for more of the Camino magic with Anita's birthday and the feast of St James to enjoy on the same day.

Day 48 - revisted

As we sit here 50 mtrs from the Santiago Cathedral enjoying our cafe con leche and doing our normal Camino business ... planning next few days. blogging etc ,it seems so surreal that we have finished ... or is this just another day off.
We enjoyed our sleep in, sorted our two day trip to Finisterre tomorrow and booked a haircut for 4pm .. have to stay presentable don't I!
Recapping on yesterday.-.
- awoke to the possibility of a blue sky which eventually materialised by the time we arrived...awesome!
- we had mentioned the growing numbers of 100km pilgrims and line up at Alburgues well we saw pilgrims sleeping out for the first time as we left O'Pedrouza (see pic)
- the 21km walk in was on delightful paths again through Eucalyptus forest till you hit the outskirts of Santiago...then its a long slog into the old city..battling bustling traffic and people...feeling a little put out by the fact that there seem little respect that we had walked over 800km to be here ☺... but its just part of their normal life so why should they .
- Anita had the joy of laying down her annoying pink water bottle at the Santiago sign only to notice a following pilgrim pick it up ... ah the Camino does provide
- there are many messages scrawled all along the Camino but only a few km's from Santiago the truth of it all distilled in large letters across a wall(see pic) .. . ''The only way to God is through Jesus...make this Way!"
- we have been walking along with some 250 catholic young people and were keen to get into the Cathedral square before them..we caught them at Monte de Gozo, the first point where you can see Santiago, and had finished our experience at the Cathedral when they charged into the square to much noise and fanfare...it was great to see their joy.
- once we had offloaded our gear at our lovely boutique hotel and made our way to the pilgrims office for a 40 min queue then voila we had our "Compostela and the new Certificate of distance" . .so that was it!
We are so glad we will be in Santiago to soak up the ambiance and ease back into normal life .
We had a lovely Camino experience as we were having a coffee yesterday , was an Irish and Spanish couple with a young 18mth old who we chatted to..they had met on the Camino 4 years earlier and got married following and live in Barcelona. ..so the Camino can even provide a husband.
So its off to the end of the world (Finisterre) tomorrow and km 0!

Reflections - on completion day + 2

So now its its real and fresh , whats the wash up for me having completed the Camino ... 840km +.
The reason's for starting all remain as true as ever . ...
- the 3 fold confirmation for us both
- marking a clear change in season for me from an age point of view (turning 60) , in work ( creating space in life by moving to half time ) and ministry ( a focus on pastoring men)
- finding a contentment in a simpler life...this has become a reality but to maintain..need to hold onto the learning's!
It became clearer as I walked the Way that this was a significant statement of what can be done, what is possible in the next phase of life...and of course the vibrancy of God speaking and teaching me his ways...these weren't fundamentals but re-learnings...this is the way on the Camino and life.
Now less than 2 weeks till we are back...what will it look like when the real Camino starts...I am confident in whom I believe and the journey/Way I have been lead on...the future is in his hands.
Ps: what a joy and privileged to make this journey with Anita..9 weeks together 24/7 a miracle for any married couple but I wouldn't have done it any other way.

Day 48 - We did it..the finish...or is it the beginning?

Over 800 km's..1mil + steps..42 days walking...6 recovering..8 weeks away from home and we have completed our walk to Santiago de Compostella!!!
...more to come next post...we are going to celebrate.
A huge Buen Camino

Day 47 - the unstoppable flow to Santiago

762 km down , 1 day and 18 km left ... today was the day we really got swept up In the tide of Pilgrims surging to Santiago... we met priests who were leading a group of over 250 young people to santiago from Sarria for their Compostela . . it was such a well run logistical exercise we were amazed -.. but The general noise & frivolity caused us to Yearn for those quieter times . Though we had left early our strategy became one of falling to the back and letting the commotion pass us by, it sort of worked , I admit I did pop in the earphones for a time.
It was again a foggy, muggy & cloudy day , cooling down later as the fog was blown away. It was a very pleasant 21km walk through mostly Gumtree lined paths and small hamlets. Some gums had grown quite tall and some had interesting thoughts inscribed on them (see pic). the constant smell of Eucalyptus and gum leave covered paths kept my thoughts flicking back to home . . partiulaty for my mate Grahame who's condition has deteriorated ... it certainly makes you realise just how far away you really are in there situation's but we know God is still but a breath away and hears all our prayers.
The reality of the dangers of the Camino, more specifically mixing busy highway traffic & pilgrims together, was bought home to us today at the 22 km mark where a pilgrim was killed about a month ago. It was a busy highway which you have to cross and with cars & trucks travelling at highway speed and young Pilgrims scrambling across with packs we almost saw an incident whilst we were there.
So in reflecting on days 22 to 32 it was so dominated by the Meseta in all it pain and beauty...from cobbled stoned Roman roads (ouch...can still feel that) to the feeling of walking off the Meseta into A day off in Leon's monastery (and 3 star Pax hotel)...but so much more..every step..every changing landscape and the Camino community.
So here we are..half a days walk till we reach Santiago's Cathedral with a flood of others..some travelling long some short but all with a story of their own Camino...we have sooo many.
As thoughts turn to relaxing, shopping.. travelling to Finisterre (by bus)...ultimately a plane to Paris..then home I wonder if we will bump into long lost Camino friends who have moved on as we took days off...has the Camino one last surprise?

Day 46 -more animals and gum trees

With another 17 km day and easier walking conditions with the forecast being cloudy and top of 22 deg we had breakfast and got on the "way" by 8am. Though overcast It was nice not to be shrouded in fog as we moved off the country roads into the wooded paths .. . a bit spooky leaving the light and heading for a dark hole leading into the woods.
A pleasant walk in a landscape covered with cornfields and Gumtree plantations  ... we saw a lot being used for firewood. Am having more frequent stops now, not so much for reheshments but to get my pack off and allow my back & vertebrae to realign, having some issues with shoulders & leg in particular ... am glad it has only now started to be an issue and not 740km ago . Got to say we have timed the ending of the walk perfectly as our body or is it our minds are telling us "enough!"... no more out of bed early, (and different bed and dam Spanish pillows every night) prepping our feet, packing every thing ( doing the ken Pearce check to ensure we have not left anything ) getting dressed, loading water & food, throwing what seems to be the heavier pack on to our shoulders.. then remembering where we are and where we are going ! ... . after all there Is a time for everything under heaven ... a time for pilgrimage & a time to go home.
By the way a few more interesting happenings on the Camino today ...
- met a cuban lady now living and teaching in Miami , was doing similar km's as us each day but stated 2 weeks later ... didn't make sense till she told us she had taken the train around the Meseta ... had a few do that .. they missed out on a key part of the Camino puzzle
- it was a day for Anita to talk to the Animals again ... cows. sheep, horses dogs & cats...they all seem to pay attention☺
- saw a girl taking her cat on the Camino...it really didn't seem too happy (see pic). We have seen a few dogs (one with its front paws bandaged..I guess they get blisters too.
- we bumped into "wheelbarrow  man"..we are travelling as similar pace just that he has a heavy wheelbarrow to push up the hills.
Have included a couple of pics of food types we encounter..a wide selection but time frames can be an issue and just because you are a pilgrim they immediately want you to eat a 3 course meal every day.
Also included pics of my healing feet...they look worse than they really are..just old blister skin peeling off. They have taken a pounding having to make over 1million steps in all conditions...now hardened and a little numb the pain is minimal
Again the realisation that in 2 weeks time we will be back at Mount Cotton..acclimatising to the cold winter weather and reacquainting ourselves with what will seem a little abnormal for awhile and processing what has been the most amazing time of our lives...oh but first it off to see St James at Santiago.